//

Lead free solder! 

//

I think made a mistake by not doing usb C
add usb C, with power abilities for bus power (should be fine, just say never plug it in to usb and normal power? is that a problem?) 

think about it from a user standpoint 

before you even install it in your rack 

- install battery
- flip the switch on the flash drive switch, 
- drag and drop software on to flash drive, auto ejects
- then you install the module

all the installation happens pre ribbon cable etc. 

regulator to accomodate 12V + 5V power if needed

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x ovular holes in front panel 

x Clear instructions for -12V/Stripe on PCB back silks 

x move the usb connector over, its hanging off the board a little too much for my taste (check with a straight edge though, if flush with the panel maybe ok? but there's room to move the power connector over so just move everything to the left doofus)
^if I do that, flip power connector so that red stripe is on the bottom, that way the cable will be facing the right way in order to easily go behind the module

// LIGHTMASK
shift Tuesday over a bit to the right 
make the whole thing a bit wider 
make it extend in the top to the jacks, with cutouts for the negative leg of the jack 
make it extend to the bottom, over the USB (there's room as long as the header spacer makes it just a bit taller like it does)

Add metal to the back of the board up through to the DOW/Moon section to block out the RGB light? rounded rectangle/oval window
windows on the back of the pcb! could even do the same for the days of week to get a cleaner circle 
just in general, back layer metal can be used to hide light where its not wanted without altering the front panel look

^prototype this with Aluminum tape

move new moon hole up a tiny bit, maybe make a bit smaller
all holes actually maybe slightly smaller

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lightMask bleed is also being cause by the fact that there is NO COPPER LAYER INSIDE THE LIGHTMASK 

THERE SHOULD BE A COPPER LAYER INSIDE OF THE LIGHMASK 

maybe not connected to the pads? anyway - flashlight shines through it rn

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light mask make the holes a little too far apart (double check this to make sure it makes sense, not closer together) so that the header pins have to get a little bit stretched out and the whole thing gets held in place with tension

//

make it thicker? 
makes light better that way? right size etc.

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X change font of "patience" on the front panel

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x move squiggles from moon over to the left to prevent extra bleed on that axis, 

also mask holes on moon phase side should be a bit smaller

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front panel missing text "MOOOoooonN"

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bottom output LED lights up the - leg of the jack, probably flip the jack component so that the ground leg is facing away from the LED

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Layout idea

swap position of the top 2 jacks and the battery if possible
this would give more stability (jacks closer to case top) and also allow the signal leds to get masks if wanted (which was why I was thinking of changing the layout in the first place

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blue LED super duper hard to see 

put it below jack as indicator
also lower the resistor value siginificantly

does it take out some of the magic? `